OK, playtime over, now to work a little. Marc & I have had our eyes on this good looking route just before Can Parasit. Guidebook says it’s 6c. There’s always plenty of chalk on it so it looks popular.
El Tiempo Se Ha Reido De Los Que No Han Venido 6c. The first bolt’s been removed but the second is easily reached. This route is overhanging all the way up, so you get pumped quickly.
The crux is a long sequence of moves from the 2nd to the 3rd bolt. There are holds but they are thin. There’s 2 options – left-hand side, or right-hand side. Left-hand side sequence has plenty of chalk and is the obvious choice – bigger and seemingly better holds, so I have a look over here. I fall just at the 3rd clip but before I can get a quickdraw on there. Thin holds. Let’s have a look at the right hand side – it’s more direct; you’re not doing an ‘S’ shape to the 3rd clip, but the first hold is a monofinger – and only to the first knuckle, but it’s just a helper to get to the right handhold to get you up over the next step in the overhang. It’s thin, but I get up there, and take another handhold up from where I fell to clip in. Uff!, good but my forearms are now as tight as drums! Progress up the route is steady, most of the time there’s good handholds, but as I say it overhangs all the time. When I top out, I get Albert to take this photo:
With the rope hanging down, it touches the floor a good 3 meters away from the base of the rock. Solid stuff – a great route.
We move down to Can Parasit and a great pair of 6s. Rasputin, 6a and Ateva, 6a+. I flash Ateva and Meli tries them both. A half abandoned lead of the 6a+ and a 6a top-out on top rope. Good work.
Going back up to the car park (it’s now getting COLD without sun) we stop to do Trigonometria, 6a at Can Melafots. I open it, then have to clean it on a second ascent when Meli & Albert couldn’t stick the last crux move 1 meter away from the belay. Time for a quick beer in Cornu…
Picasa Photo Album.
No comments:
Post a Comment