Monday, January 10, 2011

2011-01-09 Vilanova de Prades - Various

Les Alzines - Canta Corbs, 5.  Quick warm up and as soon as we touch rock, it starts spitting with rain.  But this isn't England, it's Spain, so rain didn't stop play.  Then 6a+ "Hip-Hop" next to it with an overhang to get over.


Then the 1-starred "Animal", 6a+.  Brute force start and a thin lower section.  Upper section is worth the star.  Lower section is filthy.


Raco Dels Corbs - Ochi Tai-Tai, 6a+, 1 star.  Beautiful route, long, sustained with great holds all the way up.

"Lluvia y Truenos" next to it, 6a.  Unstarred.  Not bad but if there are other routes you haven't done, I'd recommend leaving this till later.

After lunch, the mighty "Hipnotizadas", 6a+, 1 star.  Brutal start, nice fluid climbing till the top.  Marc tests the 6b "Dame Tu Aire" next to it - a project for another day.

2011-01-08 Arbolí - La Vall - Various

New sector "La Vall" oposite El Duc.  Thanks to Javi Granell for the topo.



Warm up on unknown route, which we grade at around 6a / 6a+.  It has a bare slab in the middle.  The crux move is a balance/reach combo.


Next "La Morfalógica" a nice 6 with an awkward roof.


Then "La Gran Diagonal", 6a+.  Sharp rock = excellent adhesion.



Then we take the new overgrown trail to the lower sector for the excellent (and oh so nearly onsighted) "Náiade", 6b.  Very pumpy but nice.



Then over to "El Duc" for a sunbathed 5+ and 6a+ (Mariline) and home.
( More photos )

Friday, January 7, 2011

2011-01-02 Rocabrun District (Fontenbrun)

Before we begin, Marc & Pere do a little gardening to clear the base.

I have the priveledge of opening the corner arete - probably because it's clean and I know how to put protection...

Granite, marvelous adhesion.


Crux at the top of the route.  When Marc seconds, he decides to put more protection...



Good stuff - onto the 2nd route:


OK, warm up over, we tackle the serious stuff.  6b with ultra-dodgy protection.  I onsight it.


And back in the village for lunchtime vermouth...