La Mussara - Primitiu - Polux, 6a, 70m

Well, after a hearty breakfast ( la Fiesta de Aceite, Maspujols) we warm up on Alabama's (5)  and Gandalf el Gris (5+).  Almost perfect weather for climbing except for the wind at the top of the routes.  The cold means you don't sweat and the adhesion is excellent.

After the warm up we do Laia, 6a, 35m

6a is a little conservative, but only difficult on the lower section.

After Laia, we head over to the right-hand side and I open Polux, 6a, 30m.  When Meli sees me struggle with it he wants to do it top-roped.

After this, now in shade (and cold!) we head around to Espantocells to keep the sunlight.  Unfortunately, Espantocells is dead - the monolith at the top of the route broke away and the route is unclimbable.  Also the belay to Xell has been removed.

When we head back to the car it's 3 degrees!  Brrrrr!

La Mussara - Lo Soterrani - Various...

This remains one of, if not, my favourite sectors. 

Quality rock, plenty of great routes, good length, and because of the approach, it doesn't get too crowded.  Though the approach is a bit of a pain... or more acurately, the ascent to the car after climbing.  Still, a great venue for winter climbing, it has the sun most of the day.

1) El Pinet, 6a ( http://amadorweb.iespana.es/otras%20zonas/tarragona%20zonas%20de%20escalada/paginas%20la%20musara/lo_soterrani_jardi_del_roure.htm )

2) Lo Teka, 5+

3) Lo Taku, 5+

An excellent late evening of climbing. (4pm start, ascending in darkness at 8.30pm)

La Mussara - Patagonia - Brigadistes Internacionals, 6a, 75m

2010-08-26

Brigadistes, 3 pitches (well, 2 pitches and a walk in the garden between them).  Topo here: http://www.ressenya.net/php/vimprimible.php?id=671
Brigadistes, 3 largos (es decir 2 largos y un paseo por el jardín entre ellos).  Reseña arriba:

1st pitch - nice overhang almost immediately, though with good hand holds (but not so good protection).  We took some friends and a set of Wild Country nuts and only used one nut on pitch 3's overhang start.  Slings are useful for this as the line meanders a little giving rope drag.

The line goes up to the left of the tree:
1º largo - un buen desplome justo después de empezar con canto bueno (pero protección chunga).  Llevabamos unos friends un juego de fisureros Wild Country.  Usamos solo un fisurero (al empezar el 3º largo - otra vez desplomado al inicio).  Vale la pena llevar unas eslingas como la vía no va en línea directa y la cuerda arrastra (y pesa) un poco.  La línea sube por izquierda del árbol:

Quite a long 1st pitch -35m giving this view from the belay:
1º largo es bastante largo -35m dando esta vista desde la reunión:

The walk-in-the-garden-2nd-pitch goes up slightly to the right, quite obvious.  2º largo (el paseo en la jardín) sube hast la derecha - bastante obvio.

3rd pitch - nice and exposed straight away.  There's not much room to move with the belayer right beside you but if you push on up you can clip into the wooden protection!  3º largo - imediatamente expuesto.  Hay poco espacio con la reunión al lado, pero si empujes hacía arriba puedes hacer clip en el clavo de madera!

Descent - 2 * 35m rappels to the ground.  Descenso - 2 rapels de 35m hasta el suelo.

...and the walk back to the car

...y el camino hasta el coche

Start -

I've decided to blog my exploits in the mountains.  My rockclimbing adventures are posted here, with any photos uploaded to Picasa / Flikr, with links at the bottom of the page.